Water Gardens Gazette number 308

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About Water Gardens Gazette
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Feel free to pass this Gazette as a complete document to friends you may have
whom you think would like to improve their pond keeping hobby.

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This edition includes ....................

This edition includes ....................

1.Free pond calculator as promised (all calculators are
in Microsoft Excel .xls format).
2. Plants .... Oxygenators by Peter J May
3. This edition's quick tips
4. New articles: covers all kinds of topics related to water gardens
Address where all editions can be found and where you
can ask questions we will try to answer
5. Subscribe and unsubscribe information
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1. FREE POND CALCULATOR ...............

As promised when you subscribed you will be able to get a
free calculator by going to the following web address.

Free pond calculator one of a series of 12 pond calculators to collect

This edition's free calculator will allow you to work out if you have too
many fish in your pond.

New subscribers can access these previous calculators at Free pond calculators

INSTRUCTIONS TO DOWNLOAD:
All you need to do is go to the web page above and click the link. The calculator will open up in Excel automatically. Save the file to your selected folder.

You can learn about what each calculator does by visiting:

Learn about all the water garden ponds calculators here

Of course you can get all 12 calculators free in one go by
buying my book "Your Pond: Crystal Clear Water Guaranteed."
Read more about it here:
Receive all 12 FREE water garden ponds calculators when you buy my book

Free pond calculator go to this page to download the pond calculator
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2. Oxygenator Plants .. part of Peter J May's article

OXYGENATORS .... THE ESSENTIAL INGREDIENT
A pool or a pond in a natural wild state is a self-sustaining little world.
As in our bigger world, the inhabitants need oxygen to survive. This
can be provided by plants growing in that world. If you want to have
a naturally balanced pool that requires the minimum of fuss and
maintenance, without having to oxygenate the water mechanically,
then plants that release oxygen into the water (i.e. oxygenators) are
the essential ingredient.

BIT OF BIOLOGY
All plants, apart from parasitic ones, from single celled algae to
Baobab trees, produce oxygen during a process called photosynthesis.
This is a reaction in the leaves (if it has them) by the green
chloroplasts of the plant cells, that uses sunlight or ultra violet
light and carbon to create carbohydrates and sugars used as the
building blocks of the plant. The carbon used is from carbon dioxide,
which is taken from the immediate environment. One of the by-products
given off in the process is the oxygen from bond of CO2. This two-way
exchange of gases is called transpiration.
The oxygen is lapped up by the animal inhabitants great and small of
that environment. But in a pool or pond, it is just as gratefully received
by the (aerobic) bacteria in the bottom of the pond, or perhaps in your
case a filtration system, to aid them in the process of breaking down
organic matter to its constituent chemical parts. It is important to
consider some of the compounds (like nitrates) produced by the
bacterial action, will be used by the plants in the pond environment
to boost the growth activated by the photosynthesis. And if there
are not oxygenators and other higher plants there to use them up,
then algae will. The result will then be green water as the algae
proliferate. You see oxygenators are essential, unless you have
a fountain, waterfall, air block or venturi to do the necessary instead.
BUT.... It must be pointed out that oxygenators do not work a
24 hour day. 'When the lights go out', oxygen ceases to be produced
and plants join the queue for the demand for oxygen. So in a very
heavily stocked pool that is overloaded with underwater plant life,
resources can be somewhat stretched.

ON THE OTHER HAND... If you keep within the certain prescribed
limits then everything should swing along nicely. Allow yourself only
2ins of fish per square of pool surface area (or 50cm for every square metre)
in a pool established with 2 bunches for every square foot
(20 for every square metre)... that is unless you keep KOI carp.
In the latter circumstance, unless you want to give your fish a good
feed, keep them well apart. In certain Koi pools in the past I have
found it convenient to have a planting of oxygenators in the header
pool to a stream, which seemed very effective. They work like
filter brushes, slowing down the flow of sediment that even manages
to bypass the filter system. The only problem was that they needed to
be regularly replenished when the header pool had to be cleaned
out, (no problem, see article replanting oxygenators).

THE GOOD AND THE BAD... Oxygen dissolves from oxygenators
into the water more effectively than by mechanical turbulence
because it is in fact very difficult to dissolve oxygen into water.
It needs to be done slowly and over a large surface area.
All plants that live happily under water can be described
as oxygenators. Out of these plants there are bound to be
one or two that are the best for the job we need them to do.
There is no doubt they are specialised. Roots tend to be merely
for anchorage and the nutrition absorption and gaseous exchange
occurs on the surface of the plant directly to each cell.
The plant therefore has very thin walls and thin leaves to allow this to
happen. This makes the plants floppy, which in fact becomes an
advantage under water as they are able to bend with the eddies in
the water. Two plants that have made this a real speciality and thrive
in streams are Water Crowfoot, the true Water Buttercup
(Ranunculus aquatalis) and Curly Pond Weed (Potamageton crispus).
THE BEST by far for the pool or pond is also often referred to
as "Curly Pond Weed" but is most rightly called Laragasiphon
major or more commonly Elodea crispa( South African native).
This has a tendency to take advantage of highly nutritious pond
environments by filling them up, but at least you don't get algae.
It is easy control by just snapping handfuls of it near to the source
of growth. Fish love to spawn on or near it and it is dense
enough to provide protection for the eggs and the subsequent fry.
For conservation and wildlife gardeners it is not entirely kosher
since it is not a native plant.
For indigenous plants to the UK: Water Starwort, (Callatriche stagnalis),
rampant but easy to crop to its source.
Water Milfoil, (Myriophyllum spicatum), loves limey pools with high
pH and does well where Elodea crispa fails. You get the bonus of
little flowers in some years that looks magical in certain lights.
Hornwort, (Ceratophyllum demersum), this is often confused with
Milfoil out of the water, but it feels much stiffer and has more
forked growth habit. This is one that does not mind a bit of shade
on the pool.
Water Violet (Hottonia palustris), class act for the connoisseur;
it has pretty little pink flowers above the water surface in May
and June.

THE WORST....... The worst thing about some oxygenating plants
is not that they are useless at their job, but that they are very often
confused with the best, or they are sold as marginal plants and
quickly run rampant particularly in clay-lined ponds and then are
impossible to eradicate.
Canadian pondweed (Elodea Canadensis), also known as Anacharis,
can easily be confused with the weaker growth of Laragasiphon major.
It will even grow on the surface of marginal plant baskets.
Parrots Feather, (Myriophyllum proserpinacoides) this is causing
some consternation in the States in areas where the frosts are
not stiff enough to knock it back. Sold as a marginal here, it has
submerged and surface foliage and will leap from one side of a
small to another in less than a season.
Mares tail (Hippurus vulgaris), often sold as a marginal. This
plant has been around since time began, so it is not without a
trick or two up its stem!

You can read the second part of this article on Peter's web site at
www.perfect-pond-detective.com
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QUICK TIPS QUICK TIPS QUICK TIPS QUICK TIPS
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Today's quick tips ..........

1. If you pond is losing water then do a quick check by shutting down the pump. If the level stops falling then the leak is outside the pond itself. If the level continues to fall then obviously the leak is inside the pond itself.

2. Many people use salt in their ponds. I do not recommend it but the reason is to help prevent bacterial diseases. It is important not to overdose and if the intent is to remove infection from individual fish then rather place the fish in another small temporary pond loaded with salt for a few minutes.
Use about 2 lbs per 20 US gallons of pond water as a general treatment.
As a short term soaking to treat individual fish use about 3 times as much salt as above.

3. Adding pond start bacterial mixtures can do no harm especially at this time of year. I am not too sure they do any good although some people swear by them.

4. Any pond pump with a guarantee of less than 2 years is probably not suited to most pond environments. Short term guarantees indicate lack of product confidence in difficult environments such as ponds. For safety sake use pumps with the longest possible cable and avoid joining wires if you can. It is always best to wire a pump directly into the earth leakage system of the house rather than depend upon a plug and socket. If you do join wires outdoors use waterproof cable connectors.

A list of quick tips is maintained at

http://www.practical-water-gardens.com/tiptrick.htm
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4. Expert Articles .............

In case you are not aware of the articles we publish by leading
experts in the water gardening field take a look at:
http://www.practical-water-gardens.com  where you will see the list.
 

A leading contributor is Peter May, one of the leading UK water gardens landscapers

He is just starting his own website and maybe you would like to see what he has to say there. This is his web address where you will find the details:
of the Perfect Pond Detective He would appreciate your visit.

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Web address where all editions can be found and where you
can ask questions we will try to answer ..............

Our water gardens gazette index page is here

We will try to answer personally but if this proves to be not
possible because of large volumes of e mail we receive we will
certainly answer in future Gazettes.

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